We save electricity and the bulbs last a long time, but we sit there around the table in a glaring greenish light.We dim and adjust, but it won't be pleasant.We spend time and money choosing the right color for fabric, paint and furniture.But this becomes quite pointless if the light at home anyway gives glaring colors and an uncomfortable atmosphere.Choose the right LED lights and you will avoid a garage atmosphere in the living room.Most people know that our eyes have pupils that adjust according to the brightness.When you drive into a tunnel it takes some time for your eyes to get used to the darkness and when you come out of the cinema the sun can be excessively strong.But the eyes quickly compensate.What not many people think about is that the eyes adjust one more thing.Something called white balance.What we call white light can be so many things.The two most common differences are inside and outside.The sun has a white light that contains more blue than ordinary incandescent bulbs give us indoors.We measure this white balance in kelvin.A scale that, in short, gives more and more orange light the lower you go, and more and more blue the higher you go.Out in the sun, we have approx.5600 kelvin.Inside the living room with incandescent lamps, we have approx.3200. So more orange hue in the light inside.When we enjoy ourselves with a fireplace and candles, the color tone becomes even warmer.Then the color balance tends to creep all the way down towards 2000 on the kelvin scale.In the picture above there are three light bulbs.When I took the picture, I adjusted the white balance on the camera so that the bulb in the middle was as white as possible.It is the lamp that has a color that is most reminiscent of ordinary light from an incandescent bulb.If you were sitting in a room with such light, your eyes would adjust in the same way as the camera.They will compensate as best as possible so that a white wall in the room you are sitting in actually looks white.If you had then had a cold winter's evening outside your windows, it would have looked about as blue as the lamp on the right.And if you then stared into the fireplace, the flames would look orange like the lamp on the left.You have probably also noticed that if you stand outside in the evening and look in, the light indoors looks a little orange.That's because your eyes have adjusted to the light outside, which is cooler in hue than what's inside.Unless you work as a photographer or specifically with light, you have not had to deal with white balance to any great extent.But with these new LED lights, it has become more important.Light bulbs are quite simple.They generally provide a rather warm and nice interior light.And when you dim them down to match the candles, the incandescent bulbs automatically give off an even slightly warmer light.The LED lights don't necessarily do that.The first LED bulbs I bought were not even dimmable.Then I finally got hold of some that could be dimmed, but I really struggled to get good light in the evening.Even though I have worked as a photographer and have several weight numbers in light and color tones, I did not think about the simple fact that the LED bulbs do not give a warmer light when dimmed.So even though we dimmed the light, it was simply uncomfortable.Because the hue was too cold.The manufacturers also know this, so eventually LED bulbs have arrived that also allow you to adjust the color tone.This usually happens via an app or preset settings in a switch.I have good experience with both Philips, Osram and Ikea bulbs that can adjust the color tone.But it all gets a bit more complicated anyway.The old light bulbs did this little exercise automatically.As is mentioned in the comments section here, LEDs have also come with something called "dim to warm" or "warmdim".There are LED bulbs that automatically adjust the color balance when dimmed.Then it behaves more like an incandescent bulb and you don't need a separate app or remote control to manually adjust the color balance.In my work to switch from incandescent bulbs to LEDs, I also came across another problem.Namely, that so-called white and warm indoor light from one supplier was not necessarily the same as white warm indoor light from another supplier.If all the bulbs in your living room are from one supplier and all have a faint green tint, it doesn't matter because our tiny eyes adjust and make everything look white anyway.But if you then insert a bulb from another supplier that may have a weak blue light.Then the eyes get a little confused.They adjust the color balance mostly according to the light that dominates.Then you end up with a nice shimmer of blue over there in the corner where the new bulb is.If it wasn't enough that you have to start looking for color balance when shopping for light bulbs, there is one more factor you should check: color rendering index.Or color rendering index as it is called in English.Hence the abbreviation CRI.To make this even more difficult, you may also come across the term RA index.In short, this is a light bulb's ability to shine evenly throughout the entire color spectrum.Sunlight is in a way the reference for our eyes and has an RA index of 100%.Then come halogen bulbs that give a very good light and often have an RA index of 95% or more.Fluorescent tubes are much worse and are usually at 60 to 70 percent.LED lights also vary greatly.Old or very cheap LEDs usually have a very low RA index.In order not to go into too much detail, we can say that sunlight and halogen provide what we will experience as pleasant light where the things around us take on natural colours.With early LED bulbs that had a very low RA index, the light was uncomfortable and colors were reproduced very differently.This has gotten better and better and today's high-quality LED can have an RA index of up to 90% and even above that.You should look for bulbs that have an RA or CRI of over 80. The problem here is that there are obviously very different measurement methods.I have bulbs that claim to have a CRI of over 90 that shine much more unevenly than one that has a stated CRI of "more than 80".So when you buy LED bulbs you should see if the CRI or RA is stated on the packaging.If it says nothing, it may indicate that the bulb has a low value and thus a more unpleasant light.But if you want to be sure, you should use the internet and read up.It may also be a good idea to make use of the right of return.Do a test when you get home.Check whether the light looks good together with your existing light.I have also experienced that many of my LED bulbs have not lived up to their promise in terms of lifespan.They have extinguished after about as short a time as a normal incandescent bulb.In most cases, it is not the LED part itself that breaks, but the other electronics in the bulb, which are of too low quality and cannot withstand the heat or voltage changes.There, my experience is very simple: cheap bulbs burn quickly.Expensive bulbs last so long that none of the ones I've bought have gone out yet.Buy bulbs where you can adjust the hue.Especially in rooms where you may need to dim and create a pleasant atmosphere in the evening.Check CRI or RA.It should be as high as possible.Buy quality bulbs from a well-known supplier.Then you will save both money and the environment in the long run.Cheap bulbs that burn quickly are bad for both your wallet and the environment.There has already been a lot of good information about both so-called smart light bulbs and challenges with dimming in the comments section.So here it is worth the time to continue down the page.Eirik Solheim – Journalist and technology advisor at NRKbeta.Helped start this little hook in 2006. Can be found on the internet as "eirikso" and thrives both behind a soldering iron and a compiler.Many, many thanks for an enlightening article about an irritation that has been gnawing at me for several years without me being able to put my finger on what the problem is.A light almost literally went on for me now.I guess, like most people, I shopped for LEDs and other bulbs a bit at random without finding a set for the whole living room or other rooms that gives me what I'm looking for.Quite typically, the kitchen is the room I'm most happy with, but that's because it was refurbished and all the lights (at least the light bulbs) were changed to the same type and brand.Have wondered why the kitchen works better than the other rooms, but now I know why!The LED bulbs are new and identical.The living room is a nightmare.Here I have many good quality bulbs, but they are from different manufacturers (desperately searching for something that works) and some are old with old technology although they still light up.I also have a bucket of LEDs that stopped working so far too early, but have drawn the same conclusion;slightly more expensive means better quality and longevity.But have not realized that different suppliers place different values ​​in the stated values ​​- regardless of quality and price.Missing a clear "verdict" on which supplier(s) is preferred, but it's probably a fine balance whether this is product advertising or an objective consideration 😉Reading between the lines that IKEA is over the line.But my experience is that even if the bulbs measure up, the lamps do not.Got a reply from the furniture giant that they were aware that the lamps they sell do not measure up / match the bulbs and the light control system they sell.When I complained about an unpleasant high-frequency sound from the lamps during use and dimming, I was told that I could take them in for exchange and return.No promise that they have plans to deliver quality that matches the lamps, that is 🙂I'm betting that the natural weakening of hearing due to age goes faster than the development and that in a few years I won't hear the sounds from my lamps 🙂Again: thanks for the article I've been looking for without finding all the information in one place.Especially the details about CRI/RA were an awakening - and actually very well explained.(No reason for the modesty of the article)Thank you for a thorough and pleasant feedback!We have not done a systematic test of different bulbs, so it is therefore difficult for me to draw conclusions on specific brands.But I can share a little more experience here: early IKEA LED bulbs had a nice light, but all of the ones I've had don't work anymore.They have had a challenge there when it comes to the electronics.But it seems that they have really sharpened up and deliver well with their Trådfri series.Personally, I have very good experience with Philips Hue.Knock on the table etc... but so far, not a single one of my Hue bulbs has gone dark.Also have some Manitoba Nuevo LED downlights that have performed exemplary for many years.Otherwise, the latest models of LifX have also turned out well.But surely more readers can also share their experiences here.But it is difficult to do proper tests of light bulbs because you simply have to be patient if you want to check that they last as long as they should...Sound from converters has also bothered me but now age and tinnitus are slowly taking over... 😉And then there were the dimmers, a separate research project too.Anyone have any insight into which bulbs are "bang for the buck" at the moment?In the dividing line between price/quality/colour reproduction/etc.What we have done - and which has exceeded expectations - is to standardize on Philips Hue, but with a twist.With Hue at the bottom, we get wireless control of all the bulbs from our mobiles (you can also add remote controls), via a Hue Hub, which connects to the network.Hue is probably one of the better product series.But - and this is the fun twist - Ikea Trådfri bulbs can be connected to the same system.This means that we can run good/expensive Hue bulbs in the most important places, and use dramatically much cheaper Ikea bulbs in e.g. the hallway.For us it works well, and for the most part we control the bulbs with the same software regardless of whether it is a Philips or Ikea bulb.The exception is Apple Home/HomeKit, where the Ikea bulbs do not appear.In Philips' own software, the Ikea bulbs work just fine.Of course, I can't promise that it will work as well for you, but at the price of the Ikea bulbs it might be worth a try.Also have bad experience with this.Have bought expensive (200 NOK) dimmable bulbs from well-known brands that flicker and are useless at anything below 100% effect.Disappointing.We will follow up with more cases about so-called smart bulbs and control of light.I have little experience with external dimmers and dimmable LEDs.While Hue, Trådfri, LifX and Osram Lightify work fine from 100% and all the way down to almost completely dark.But they are all bulbs that can be controlled via a hub and have dimming and control of color balance via an app.For external dimmers, it is often a problem that the LED bulbs do not provide enough load.The dimmer is usually sized for halogen and ordinary incandescent bulbs that draw at least 30 watts.If you connect a single LED bulb, which usually only draws 7 watts, to such a dimmer, it becomes unstable and the light flickers.Sometimes it makes it from 100% and maybe down to 80%, but then when you dim more and the load gets even lower (the bulb draws fewer watts when you dim it) it still starts to flicker.It is claimed in many places on the web that the IKEA Trådfri bulbs will now work with Apple HomeKit.For example:https://www.the-ambient.com/how-to/ikea-tradfri-smart-bulbs-apple-homekit-guide-344Sonerud mentioned that Trådfri is said to be able to be used with Home/HomeKit now, and that may well be true.Just mentioning that there are several ways all this can be connected.You can run Trådfri bulbs via a wireless hub, but you can also run Ikea Trådfri bulbs via the Philips Hue Hub.It is the latter that we have done here in the house, and which works well for us, but which has not yet worked for us with Home/HomeKit.Regarding IKEA Trådfri and Apple Homekit, I can confirm that it works perfectly.Had some stability problems with the first firmware, but that was probably a year ago.Now have over 20 Wireless devices at home and they are usually all on the setting with the lowest Kelvin and it looks very good with us.Apple Homekit has support for both automation and being able to easily choose "moods";which controls Kelvin (only three choices on Wireless) and dimming (from 0% to 100%).Is it also possible to control this per room/zone and all the way down to individual bulbs if desired.Have set up automation (via Apple TV as base) with "When the first person comes home: turn on all lights;mood x" and "When system man leaves: turn off all lights".As well as that certain lights are turned on with a slightly weaker strength/"mood y" every weekday in the morning.This obviously requires everyone in the household to have an iPhone for it to work for everyone, so it's obviously not a good choice for those who prefer Android.Also very nice to be able to turn off all the lights from the sofa with a click if you want to watch a movie and go to bed.You can probably use voice control as well, but that's not quite my thing.I'm no expert on this, but I think I read something some time ago that the IKEA Wireless bulbs must be connected to IKEA's "HUB" in order to get updated firmware - which is a prerequisite for working with Apple Homekit.Yep, the wireless hub (they call it gateway) is a must have, but it only costs NOK 350I moved into a new house 4.5 years ago and then bought LEDs for all the lamps.All the Ikea bulbs still light up, but fade a bit when dimmed from an Elko dimmer, and certain bulbs flash/flicker and cannot be used.The Ikea bulbs also have the worst light.A bit like glaring office fluorescents.A phillips bulb (not Hue).Still holding.A little bright light.Downlight bulbs from Clas Ohlson, which are supposed to imitate halogen.By far the best light with a warmer tone, but by far the worst quality.Here I am on round no. 3 with pears.Downlights lamps (not bulbs) from Elkjøp.Shines well and still lasts.More recently purchased bulbs from Biltema.These have lasted for two years and were bought to replace Ikea bulbs that flicker.The Biltema bulbs have better light than Ikea and work without problems when dimming.Biltema's works very well, but cannot be connected via the Hue bridge, but I mostly use the Tuya app for everything, since it has been so expanded in terms of possibilities, it has become a go to app for everything that has to do with home automation for me. Biltema's bulbs have strong colours, and the white shades are completely inside.Thank you for a decent and comprehensive article about LED bulbs.I have also struggled with inappropriate colors on them.I have also experienced that dimmable bulbs cannot be dimmed.Your piece was good, easy to read, complementary and gave me quite good answers to things I've been wondering aboutIs it because you have a dimmer that cannot dim led perhaps?Have tried many joints.Those who sit in regular spots, linger for a long time.The dimmable ones, smoke after a week.Has also suffered with a normal socket, in the outdoor lamps.It's only Osram.One smoked after two months.Led becomes very expensive in the long run, with a lot of poor quality.Led should have a different type of dimmer than incandescent bulbs, if bulbs burn out after a week I would change the dimmer.Jula and Biltema have bulbs with 2200 kelvin and a long lifeAll manufacturers shoot for longevity 😉Speaking of which: In 2016, Adi Shamir (S in RSA!) demonstrated how easy it is to take control of Philips Hue bulbs.He did it humorously, by showing a video of a drone flying up to a technology building in Israel, taking over all the light bulbs there, and making them flash SOS.The moral is that you also have to think about IT security when you buy fancy LED lamps, because they have to last for a while.(The entertaining demonstration was filmed, and is in the YouTube collection from the Rump session at Crypto 2016. It is easiest to find it by matching against the program, search term "screw a lightbulb", but I can't get the link where I am right now.)Eirik Solheim I came across these http://www.mengsled.com I have bought a small batch that I use for outdoor lighting, the reason is that I have to use short LED bulbs in the outdoor lamps, and then it is difficult to find someone that shines brightly enough .These I have last for 2-4 years plus or minus.It would be nice to have a test of these in Norway 🙂Admittedly, they don't stay on all day, and 4 years doesn't quite match, but between 2 and 3 years on average.Good article!Regarding the lifespan of LED bulbs, I experienced a big improvement after installing a transient protector (Google it) in connection with the LED lamp in the home office.It can be mentioned that the bathroom on the same current course has fluorescent tubes, which is not recommended because transients from fluorescent lighting can destroy leds.Would also recommend people to complain about LED bulbs that do not last the time stated.Have even got new LED bulbs from Clas Ohlson because the bulbs stop lighting after 1/2 the time.Had an outdoor light bulb with LED sensor that stopped working after 2.5 years.Calculated that it was 11' hours and less than half of what was stated, 25' hours.Therefore always write on the date the day it is put into use on the bulb.After several bad experiences with LED bulbs that stopped lighting way too early, I also started writing the date on each and every new bulb I screw in. Also saves on receipts.I've mostly had good luck getting the bad bulbs replaced.Thanks.It is not so good for us older people to keep up with all the new things that have come.Dimming dramatically increases the lifespan of incandescent and halogen bulbs.We have many halogen bulbs that are constantly dimmed to approx.65% and they have held up well for over 15 years.But I wonder if dimming is just as good for LED.Are the electronics struggling with it?There is nothing to indicate that the electronics will struggle with it.If anything, it is rather the other way around, as less current flows, and less heat is generated, when the LED is dimmed (just like with incandescent bulbs).I am surprised that light sources/lamps are still called "bulbs".It has been a long time since all lamps had a bulb shape.Are fluorescent tubes also a "bulb"?Otherwise, I only have "garage lights" in the house.Can't stand bright lights.Most light sources for screw sockets are still vaguely bulb-shaped.The LED versions of small halogen and reflector bulbs are much the same shape as the incandescent versions (grapes and cut bulbs).Conventional fluorescent tubes are probably cucumbers, and the classic fluorescent-based energy-saving "bulbs" are well on their way out.In this way, light bulbs do not go completely wild.Fluorescent tubes must then be a cucumber and not a bulbThanks for the informative article.It is useful when buying LED bulbs.I have long been annoyed by the fact that LED bulbs have mostly had a cold light, and therefore largely avoided buying them in favor of halogen bulbs.I have also experienced that LED bulbs sometimes last much shorter than stated.I have a small comment about the language, specifically extinguishing versus extinguishing.We can turn off the light, while light bulbs go out.🙂ATTENTION!One more IMPORTANT thing for those who are thinking of switching to LED in a lamp that has a transformer before the bulbs, such as those with G4, GY6.35, etc. After you have switched, you will very likely get violent flashing on the new LED bulbs you have invested in. This is because the transformers in these lamps are usually not designed for such a low load as it has become when you switch from halogen to LED.If you are also going to dim the lamp, your chances of this being good if you don't also change the transformer in the lamp are poor.stephan: do you mean a resistor that has a high enough resistance to not get very hot would work?I would think that you will generally have to waste enough power on such a bottom load that you achieve the transformer's minimum requirements.Such a resistor will get hot and few lamps have a suitable place to mount it.A trick that has worked for my transformers is to leave one or more halogen bulbs as a base load.This stops the flickering, and the bulbs look pretty much the same at maximum brightness, but the halogen bulbs dim down faster than the LED bulbs.For ceiling lights with hidden bulbs, it still works well.@Frode: Yes, that trick works, but which LED bulbs have you used that are so similar to halogen?In my case, the problem is as described in the article.Have used Eglo g4 led 1.8w, and they are significantly yellower than halogen.Nice article - To the rest of you who have problems with this, call an electrician next time!🙂LED lights are not cozy and difficult to dim, so I stick to halogen!Have had 20 halogen bulbs in the living room for 6 years and only replaced 5-6.Always have them slightly dimmed and then they last much longer than the stated lifespan.Also only buy 50 watt bulbs as these can be dimmed more than 25/35w for the same brightness and thus last longer.Thank you very much.I call this journalism.I like to distinguish between useful and entertaining.We could well have less of entertainment journalism.As a safety representative, I have experienced that 3-4% of employees experience discomfort (of varying severity) due to white light.The problem has been solved that the bulbs with white light have been replaced with bulbs with "normal daylight".The reason why white light was chosen was that it was cheaper.It is especially important to be aware of this in an office landscape.As it says in the article, daylight is white light, but perhaps the light had poor color reproduction or that something just likes warmer light.Hello.my experience is that many people use dimmers that are calculated for ohmic-load core transformers for LEDs, then they burn out quickly.If you buy an ELKO GLED dimmer or equivalent in another brand, the LED bulbs last forever and are flicker-free.ELKO GLE made after 2015/16, so you also want a good LED dimmer.I have just bought 10 dimtowarm bulbs, cost NOK 280 per bulb and ELKO GLED dimmer, works like a rock, can be dimmed all the way down to 0%, no 50hz buzzing sound and no flickering.For my taste, the dimly warm bulb was a bit too dark.Satisfied.A couple of years ago I changed all the light sources in the apartment to Hue, either bulbs or lamps.One thing is that light control has become much easier, switches on the wall are almost completely gone and most things are completely automatic or voice controlled.Fun.But being able to adjust the color temperature depending on the situation turns out to be surprisingly useful/pleasant.Over the course of the evening, the light gradually dims and becomes 'yellower'.When it's time for washing, I have flood lighting ala daylight.When I'm cooking, I've found a white temperature that works well.And if the fire alarm reacts to bad air or smoke, the whole apartment will either turn yellow or red, which is also fun :3I have also had success with ELKO GLE dimmers in combination with dimtowarm bulbs (Unilamp PrismaCob+ GU10 6″ Warmdim).Works well, but I think this particular bulb becomes far too red when it is dimmed (a bit redder than the halogen bulbs that were in the fixtures before).Have otherwise experienced that Osram's E27 LED bulbs work well, if not quite as long as the advertising suggests (these are not dimmed).I have also tried Clas Ohlson and Osram bulbs with a G9 socket (230 V).The Clas Ohlson bulbs were catastrophically poor quality (less than a week for many of them) and I gave up after changing a few times at Clas Ohlson.The Osram bulbs are better, but here again the quality is MUCH worse than Osram promises (a few months for many of them).Part of the problem is probably that the bulbs are very small and it is probably difficult to get the electronics small enough and at the same time with a long life.For those of you who struggle with dimming LEDs, you should invest in an ELKO GLED or a Micro matic UNILED 325+ These can pretty much dim anything that is dimmable."Out in the sun, we have approx.5600 degrees kelvin" excuse me, but temperature is measured in Kelvin (among other things) and 5600 degrees Kelvin is a temperature found on the sun's surface.So here you have messed with the namesThe article is about color temperature.Read more here: https://snl.no/fargetemperatur_-_fysikkTo be a bit petite: Kelvin is Kelvin - not "degrees Kelvin".Nor does it say "degrees Kelvin" in the article.For those who don't bother to look up Patrick's reference to SNL: When an absolute black body is heated, it starts to glow—reddish at 1000K, yellower as the temperature reaches 4000K, whiter, and over to blue as the temperature goes down up to 10,000 K. Mao.there is a direct relationship between heat measured in kelvin, and color temperature measured in kelvin.The only thing left is this "absolutely black body": Something absolutely black does not exist in reality, although certain substances are not so far from it.But the physicists have theoretical models that describe how a completely black object would have behaved when heated, if it had existed.(The blackest substances that exist behave very close to what the model predicts, but not quite.)It is true that writing "degrees kelvin" is wrong.And it was originally like that in the article.But have corrected it after it was pointed out.The first LED bulbs we bought cost around NOK 500 per piece.They still glow, but weaker than at the start.The color is OK, but then it is in a hallwayThanks for a (quite) informative article!I would encourage you to keep the packaging and receipt when you buy LED bulbs and expensive energy saving bulbs. Then it is easier to advertise if they burn out too quickly.After a while, you can look through the box of packaging and see which manufacturer and brand are still working.I have bet exclusively on Philips.At the same time, I have removed some physical dimmers.Physical dimming of these bulbs creates an unpleasant noise and light.Physical dimmers are also not necessary since all the bulbs have built-in dimming.Personally, I am very satisfied with Philips' HUE system and do not foresee using anything else in the first years to come.https://www.unilamp.no/produkter/lyskilder/lyskilder.htmlhttp://civilight-na.com/product-category/led_spotlights/Do not buy LED from CHINA I have bought cheap led bulbs manufactured in China and they have gone out too well after a few days.So they didn't last the 20,000 hours they were supposed to.After that, I have only bought led bulbs from well-known brands such as Osram and Philip.They still light up.Most of them are made in China, I've used Biltema's cheap NOK 80 each, they light better than the Hue bulbs I have.. The only negative is that you use wifi.. So in the worst case I have to use 2 apps.. Which I have chosen to do since I have 9 Hue bulbs in the house, and the rest in their car themes.. When the Hue bulbs go, I will never have you in the house again..Do you have any tips for LED bulbs that have decent color quality and are relatively strong at the same time?In many stores I have problems finding things over 1000 lumens, but I have various rooms where I could well imagine 1500 or more from each lamp.There is more to be found online, but it is often difficult to find out which brands are of good quality.Yes, I am very fond of very bright rooms.IKEA's Ledare series has many good bulbs, among other things they had an 1800 lumen with CRI about 90 for just over a hundred.But it looks like this has now been discontinued and a new one has been added (https://www.ikea.com/no/no/catalog/products/50363296/).Haven't tested the latter myself and couldn't find CRI on the fly, but based on the old one I think it's about what you're looking forUse LED bulbs with a dim-to-warm function, so the light gets closer by itself when you dim it down.There is no need for smart bulbs with control via an app to achieve this, as the article gives the impression.And by all means, use (or switch to) dimmers calculated for led.Thanks.I have updated the case to include the "dimtowarm" function that some LEDs have.It is a very nice solution.Norwegians want yellower lights than people in many other countries.We are more used to it: Since electricity has been cheap in this country, we have run the bulbs at a lower voltage than they are "actually" (according to other countries' standards) designed for: In other countries, 240-245V is common, then the bulb gives much more light, and much whiter light, than on 220V in Norway.(We rather use a 60W bulb to get enough light, where in countries with higher mains voltage you get by with 40W.)This means that in many places in Europe you are used to a markedly whiter light than our more yellow-coloured one.Furthermore, Norway has been one of very few countries with a standard lifespan of 2,500 hours - in most other places it has been 1,000 hours, also for normal bulbs.But it could easily have been the same bulb: 2,500 hours on Norwegian 220V, 1,000 hours on other countries' 240V – they last significantly longer when run on lower voltage.A few years ago, in the name of "harmonisation", a European compromise was adopted: All countries in Western Europe that have had 220V voltage as the norm must switch up to 230V, and those that have had 240V or more must switch down to 230V.If we had continued with incandescent lamps, it would in the long term have led to the fact that we Norwegians would have become accustomed to a somewhat whiter light, and e.g.in England which used to have 240V (sometimes 245V) would have been used to a somewhat yellower light.With LED, this is no longer directly relevant - but it comes into play in the way that "dim to warm" has a much larger market in Norway than in many other countries.🙂